How to Tell if Your Jewellery Is Really Antique

I’m so excited to share another blog with you, this time on one of the questions I get asked the most: “How can you tell if jewellery is truly antique?”

It’s something that fascinates me, because every piece has a story, and learning to recognise the signs of age, craftsmanship, and history makes owning vintage and antique jewellery even more special. Whether you’ve inherited a family heirloom or spotted a piece you adore, here are a few ways to tell if it’s the real thing.

What Makes Jewellery ‘Antique’?

Before we start, it helps to know what “antique” actually means. Generally, a piece is considered antique if it’s over 100 years old. Anything from around 20 to 99 years old is usually classed as vintage, and of course, there are also modern pieces made in older styles (often called vintage-inspired or reproduction jewellery).

At SoBi & co, I love sourcing genuine antique and vintage jewellery because each piece carries its own unique story, from the materials used to the tiny details only time can create.

1. Look for Hallmarks and Maker’s Marks

Hallmarks are one of the best clues to a piece’s age and origin. In the UK, gold, silver, and platinum jewellery often carries a series of small stamped symbols that can tell you:

• The metal type and purity (for example, 9ct, 18ct, or sterling silver)

• The assay office where it was tested (such as Birmingham’s anchor or London’s leopard’s head)

• A date letter, which corresponds to a specific year

Over time, these marks can wear down, which in itself can be a sign of age. It’s always worth using a magnifying glass or loupe to take a closer look!

Sometimes you’ll also find a maker’s mark, usually initials. These can be wonderful little clues that lead to the original jeweller or workshop that made the piece.

2. Notice the Craftsmanship

Antique jewellery was made by hand, and that’s one of its greatest charms. You might notice tiny irregularities, a slightly asymmetrical setting or hand-engraved detail that isn’t machine-perfect.

In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, jewellers used traditional tools and techniques, so pieces often have a softer, more organic feel. The claws holding stones, for example, may be slightly uneven or delicately shaped by hand. Those little imperfections are what make antique pieces so beautifully human.

3. Pay Attention to the Design and Era

The style of a piece can tell you so much about its age. Here are a few quick clues:

• Victorian (1837–1901): Romantic designs, hearts, serpents, seed pearls, and lockets.

• Edwardian (1901–1915): Light, lace-like platinum settings, bows, garlands, and floral motifs.

• Art Deco (1920s–1930s): Geometric shapes, symmetry, and bold contrasts.

If you recognise these details, you can often get a sense of which era your piece belongs to. (You can also read more about these eras in my earlier blog Identifying Jewellery Eras: Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco Explained 💎).

4. Materials and Gemstones

Older pieces often feature materials or cutting styles you won’t see today.

• Old cut diamonds have larger facets and a softer sparkle compared to modern brilliant cuts.

• Natural pearls, paste stones, and rolled gold were also commonly used in antique jewellery.

• You might even find unusual combinations, like garnet and turquoise, or amethyst with seed pearls - popular choices in the 19th century.

  
  

Each gem tells its own story, shaped by the tools and techniques of its time.

5. The Patina of Age

One of my favourite things about antique jewellery is the patina, that gentle sheen or soft wear that develops over decades. It’s something you can’t fake. Gold warms, silver softens, and stones settle beautifully into their settings.

At SoBi & co, I always say a little wear isn’t a flaw, it’s proof of a life well lived. These marks of time give each piece its depth, character, and charm.

6. When in Doubt, ask an Expert

If you’re ever unsure, it’s always worth having a piece looked at by someone experienced. At SoBi & co, every item is carefully tested and appraised to ensure its authenticity. We only select pieces that are genuine, beautifully made, and full of timeless charm.

Why It Matters

Learning to identify antique jewellery isn’t just about value, it’s about connection. Each antique ring, pendant, necklace or bracelet carries the craftsmanship and emotion of the time it was made.

For me, there’s something magical about holding a piece that’s been loved for generations and knowing you’re becoming part of its story. ✨

Thank you for reading, I hope this guide helps you look at your own jewellery collection with fresh eyes and even more appreciation for the treasures of the past.

Nicola x